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Showing posts with label Bess of Hardwick. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Bess of Hardwick. Show all posts

Bess in Winter

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Another blast of cold weather, with a slight possibility of snow has me feeling cold. I love cold weather in all honesty, but I have found myself adding a layer here and there. It must be my aching bones. My niece gave me a wool challis stole for Christmas and it is close by for a blanketing effect when needed.


 Horst photograph


 How did the likes of Bess of Hardwick manage to stay warm?




 Aside from the wearing of fur, (at left)- as a young woman in heavy robes beautifully tipped in fur. Bess as Lady Cavendish, painted by a follower of Eworth, c. 1557. She wears fine jewelry & her fine clothes include a linen smock worked with  scarlet, and-( at r.) as the formidable Countess of Shroesbury in ermine, no less.




A favored color?





Bess always had a fire in her bedchamber at Hardwick hall and kept the room well insulated against draughts and winter chills. "Those large windows, which were so splendid architecturally,, made the house particularly cold and draughty in the winter, especially perched as it was on a hilltop."  (excerpted from Mary S Lovell's Bess of Hardwick)



Just imagine a Tudor morning and a driving snow without.

Hardwick Hall
photograph John Gay


Rather than the opulent silks and velvets which feature in the guestrooms, her bed was  a great scarlet-caparisoned tester bed hung with warm bed-curtains of finely woven scarlet wool. The window curtains were also scarlet. And a second pair of bedhangings were kept to be used over the scarlet ones in exceptionally cold weather; when these were all fastened round her bed, it must have been cosy to the point of stuffiness. (Mary Lovell)


I immediately thought of the sumptuous bed & room of David Hicks, though the heavy coverings of Bess's scarlets are hardly matched here, I think Hicks captures an out of time quality in this room.




Though I could easily envision Bess redecorating the David Hicks room by adding her fine handwork to tapestries all about the room-something like the ones she would have had a hand in. She was a master at the needle.








Appliquéed heraldic panel, Hardwick Hall, 16th C.
image from here


 
Appliquéed flowers and bands from a piece at Hardwick Hall, 16th C.
from here


Born in 1527, Bess learned her excellent skills and management of household from her mother and her aunt, creating a grand yet comfortable world  from the time of her marriage to Sir William Cavendish in 1547 until her death. As Lady of Chatsworth and from all of her subsequent titles, she employed embroiderers, seamstresses & lace makers to create the enormously detailed hangings of Hardwick Hall that can still be seen today.


Europa and the Bull
 (all needlework images from an Elizabethan Inheritance the Hardwick Hall Textiles)


an unknown woman by Marcus Gheeraerts 
 costume is modeled after "Virgo Persica" (the dress of Persian maiden) 
from Boissard's Habitus Variarum Orbis Gentium



Bess's aging bones evidently felt the cold a good deal, for in her chamber were three coverlets to hang across the two windows and the doors in winter months. Eight warm rugs protected her unshod feet, two great tapestries fifteen foot deep, 'with personages and forest work', hung against the walls. And in addition to the 'featherbed', bolster and pillows, there were twelve warm blankets.(Lovell)


from an Elizabethan Inheritance the Hardwick Hall Textiles
above & in detail, below




Typical (below) are the Hardwick Hall bedchambers (see National Trust photographs below) that Bess shunned in favor of her scarlet woolen saturated rooms.



Hardwick Hall
Early-eighteenth-century bed in the Green Velvet Room. ©NTPL/Nadia Mackenzie



Hardwick Hall
Bed from about 1740 in the Cut Velvet Bedroom. ©NTPL/Nadia Mackenzie





Bess died on February 13, 1608, probably age 80 & what a remarkable life. Sadly she would not have seen the spring beauty of Hardwick Hall but gazed on its winter blanket of snow. The scarlet wrapped haven against the cold left to be bathed in dower black.


'I assure You, there is No Lady in this Land that I better Love & Like.'
-Queen Elizabeth I about Bess of Hardwick


and I think Yes, to the scarlet.




Resources used for this post:

Emile de Bruijn of the National Trust here


stop at  Janet Blyberg's JCB to read about Hardwick Hall here

photographs of Hardwick Hall here

find a grave photograph here


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now reading

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A book is a garden, 
an orchard, 
a storehouse, 
a party, 
a company by the way, 
a counselor, 
a multitude of counselors.
Charles Baudelaire
 





















and just finished, a second reading of -
























& a series of Francine du Plessix Gray books-





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in an Elizabethan Garden



"For if delight may provoke men's labour,

what grater delights is than to behold the earth apparalled with plants

as with a robe of imbrodered works,

set with orient pearles
and garnished with great diversitie of rare and costly jewels."


-John Gerard's dedication to Lord Burghley from his book


a beloved book , THE ART OF DRESS Clothes and Society 1500-1914, is the best single source for all things in Fashion. Written by Jane Ashelford and published the National Trust, it is an amazing compendium of scholarly knowledge, but written with the most divine details - little bits about the garments worn and the people that wore them. I've corresponded with Jane and found that the book will be reissued in August. Get yourself a copy, You won't regret it.





I am fascinated by the grand Elizabeth R- and no less fascinating is this glorious dress worn in the portrait by and unknown artist for Hardwick Hall. What fascinates me is the beautiful depictions on the skirt. The Elizabethans used motifs of nature in abundance and the white satin skirt is the piece de resistance of this love of nature.


Elizabeth R
The Hardwick Portrait by Nicholas Hilliard


According to Jane- at one time the skirt was thought to have been painted- now consensus is that the needle was the brush that created this masterpiece. Apparently this garden is embroidered and its intricate stitchery overseen by Bess of Hardwick. Bess is likely to have put her own embroidery skills to work on the fantastical skirt. The costume was a gift for the Queen on New Year's Day. Interestingly- both male and female servants at Hardwick were schooled in the art of embroidery-so it is easy to imagine them with heads bent, working the magnificent white satin into a virtual natural world for the Queen.



Bess of Hardwick






*Satin Gauntlet embroidered with silk and metallic thread, purland spangles, trimmed with silk ribbon and silver-gilt bobbin lace…English c. 1600-1625Fashion in DetailSeventeenth and Eighteenth CenturyAvril Hart and Susan North*

The botanicals and beasts on the garment would have been studied and rendered from the book : The Herball or General Historie of Plants by John Gerard and published in 1597.
(pages from the work below)








the skirt in detail



There are many and most All recognizable animals and floral specimens. The Pansy- one of the flowers depicted- was a favorite with Elizabeth and appeared on many of her clothes. Other specimens: Eglantine Rose, the Iris, Cowslip, Columbine, Strawberry & Pomegranates .




an example of the embroidery of the period.


From the Animal Kingdom: the swallow, crocodile , the spider, moth, crane, the whale, shark, the serpent and a fierce dragon.

What is in your Elizabethan garden?